A trip back to Sagada.. sweeter the third time around

Tree-lined path going to Sumaguing Cave in Sagada

Before starting on an event job a few months ago, I headed up North of the Philippines to prepare and recharge myself from incoming days of physical and mental stress. It was such a joy to be back in Banaue. It was my 3rd visit but the most memorable one because I hiked around the world-famous Banaue Rice Terraces for the 1st time!

Fresh cabbages along the way to Sagada

After 2 fun-filled days sprinkled with unpredictable weather, we left Banaue for a trip back to one of my favorite places to re-visit, Sagada! We took the local jeep for Bontoc at 8:45 a.m. Fare cost is PhP 150 (US $3) per person.

The best seats on the way to Sagada

I was expecting an uncomfortable 2-hour ride due to bad roads like last 2005 but I was surprised that around 98% of the roads are now cemented. The road to Bontoc has one of the most beautiful landscapes. It was a sunny day and the urge to sit on the roof like how some locals take the jeep was very strong. However, my skin was still healing from the burn I got when we hiked the rice terraces so I settled inside the jeep. I just stuck my head out of the narrow window and tried to capture the amazing landscape as much as I can.

Amazing scenery on the way to Sagada

For some reason, we unintentionally set our trip to Sagada during the rainy season. Last August 2008, we even arrived on a stormy day. It wasn’t the muddy roads which delayed our trip to Bontoc but the occasional landslides.
There was a landslide near the town of Talubin but luckily, we only stopped for 20 minutes. I remember when we took the bus from Baguio to Sagada 2 years ago, we waited almost 3 hours for the huge rocks to be cleared.
Along the way, we passed by the Bay-yo Rice Terraces. It may not be often visited since the public transport don’t usually stop there. It has its own beauty. Not comparable to the more well-known rice terraces though.

Rice terraces on the way to Sagada

We arrived Bontoc around 11:30 a.m. We didn’t go around the capital of Mountain Province like before and immediately took the 11:45 a.m. jeep going to Sagada. Fare is PhP 50 (US $1). For those who have the time and wish to explore Bontoc, the Bontoc Museum is a must-see. It has in its possession rare photos taken by Eduardo Masferre, the father of Philippine photography.
As recommended by our friend Ricky aka dutchpickle, we stayed at the very cozy Sagada Homestay. I highly recommend this place. The rooms were spotless, the kitchen and dining area are both well-equipped, free wi-fi, hot and cold showers.. for only PhP 250 per person. St Joseph Guest house is an option in case Sagada Homestay is full. We stayed there last 2008. The dorm rooms which are also double rooms cost PhP 200 (US $4) per person. The guest house got a huge garden overlooking the Sagada town. Cafe St Jo was renovated and is now open for business.

Early morning mist outside our dorm in St Joseph Guest house. Taken last Aug 2008

There are lots of things to do while in Sagada! Exploring the Sumaguing and Lumiang caves, hiking to see the hanging coffins at the Echo Valley, trekking Mt Ampacao, sunrise at the Kiltepan viewpoint, a swim at the Bokong and Bomod-ok waterfalls. Activities suitable for all ages.
However, for this particular trip, I skipped all of it and opted to laze around. I’ve done most of the outdoor activities on previous trips to Sagada as well.
For those who are adventurous enough to try caving, exploring the Sumaguing cave costs PhP 500 (US $10) for 4 pax. The Lumiang cave to Sumaguing cave connection cost PhP 800 (US $16) for 1 – 2 pax, PhP 1,200 (US $24) for 3 pax and PhP 1,600 (US $32) for 4 pax.

A typical Filipino breakfast in Sagada. served with organic red rice

Eating in Sagada is an attraction in itself. The Saturday Night buffet at the Log Cabin is a must-try! Make sure to make your reservation at least before the Saturday Morning Market since French chef and owner Philippe, also known as Aklay, buys the freshest ingredients good enough for the number of reserved seats.

Saturday morning market in Sagada

There are so many restaurants worth trying in Sagada. First time visitors shouldn’t miss Yoghurt House and Masferre Cafe. Both restaurants serve good food in large portions. Bana’s used to be a favorite but since the chef moved to Cafe St Jo, the food quality suffered a lot.

Glad to be back in Sagada!

No matter how many times I visit Sagada, whether to do the same activities, eat the same food or just laze around and enjoy the perfect weather, I’d still look forward to visiting again.. and again.. and again.